When looking for vintage or antique jewellery, it’s important to understand the distinct designs that each period is known for. In the early 20th century, art deco dominated design in everything from architecture and automobiles to fashion and, of course, jewellery.
Known for its elegance and exotic inspiration, art deco is a striking style that blends modernism in a timeless fashion.
In this guide, we will explore the origins of Art Deco, the key features to look out for in art deco design, and how it was, and continues to be, translated into jewellery that stands the test of time.
What is Art Deco?
‘Art Deco’ is said to have started at the ‘Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels’, an exhibition that took place in Paris in 1925, which inspired a distinct design style popular between the 1920s and 1940s.
From architecture, like the Chrysler Building in New York, to fashion, like Coco Chanel, art deco inspired all forms of design, and still influences styles of today.
What are the key features of art deco design?
There are four main features that define art deco designs.
Geometric Shapes
Art Deco is all about strong lines and geometric shapes. Think squares and triangles, but also more exciting shapes, like zigzags and sunburst designs, popular in architecture and in jewellery, which may have been repeated in a rhythmic pattern.
Sleek, streamlined lines
The epitome of modernity, Art Deco was an ode to the machine ages and this is reflected in its design. Smooth, long lines or aerodynamic curves help to evoke a sense of motion.
Modern materials and exotic motifs
Taking inspiration from African, Japanese or ancient Greek art, and the discovery of Tutunkahmun’s Tomb in 1922 influenced Art Deco designers to experiment with luxurious and exotic materials and motifs. This was often contrasted with the use of modern metals, such as steel and chrome and traditional materials like ivory or bone.
Vibrant, bold colours with contrast
Using vibrant colours like deep reds, greens and blues was often contrasted with metallic accents, like gold and silver to create a bold, statement look.
How did art deco influence jewellery design?
When it comes to art deco jewellery, many jewellery designers explored the key features in the shapes, stones and style of their pieces.
Jewellery houses like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels really embraced art deco in their designs, choosing bright gemstones and geometric designs to modernise jewellery to suit the changing demands of contemporary women.
Some iconic Art Deco jewellery from the height of this period include:
Cartier Tutti Frutti collection, c. 1920s
Although not officially named ‘Tutti Frutti’ until much later in the 1970s, this multicoloured collection was inspired by the designers ‘adventures in India’, embodying the exotic influence seen in art deco design as well as the bold bright colours.
So iconic was this collection, that in 2020 an original Cartier Tutti Frutti bracelet from 1930, was sold for a record-breaking $1.3 million at a Sotheby’s online auction dedicated to jewellery.
Cartier Halo Tiara, c. 1936
One of the most iconic jewellery pieces belonging to the British Royal Family is the late Queen Elizabeth’s Cartier Halo Tiara.
Originally purchased in 1936, in the height of the Art Deco period for the Queen’s Mother, it was gifted to Queen Elizabeth on her 18th birthday, the Halo Tiara was later worn by Catherine Middleton on her wedding day in 2011, leading to a trend in Art Deco inspired bridal jewellery.
Van Cleef & Arpels gemstone bracelets and cuffs
Another jewellery house synonymous with the art deco period is Van Cleef & Arpels. In particular, they focused on creating bracelets and cuffs that were a modern interpretation of jewellery for women.
Notably, their geometric gemstone bracelets featured semi-precious stones rather than diamonds, which was unusual for the time. They were also incredibly innovative for the time as they used calibré cut gems which showcased a new stone-cutting technique developed by Van Cleef & Arpels used to create form and texture within a jewel – the height of modernity!
Chanel imitation pearl necklace
An iconic look during the art deco period was Coco Chanel’s monochromatic little black dress paired with an imitation pearl necklace. Although the brand did not manufacture pearl necklaces until much later, founder Gabrielle Chanel is famed for popularising wearing strings of pearl and imitation pearl necklaces in the 1920s and 1930s.
How to get the Art Deco look today?
Even if your budget doesn’t quite stretch to sourcing vintage designer jewellery at auction, you can still get the art deco look by keeping in mind the key design features and choosing timeless pieces.
Geometric Engagement Rings
Art Deco is a timeless design, making it a perfect style for heirloom jewellery, like an engagement ring! The sleek, streamline design seen in Art Deco gemstone rings make them appear modern even today.
Choose a bold, brightly coloured gemstone for a beautiful contrast look, like an Emerald Art Deco Engagement Ring for a truly statement piece.
Elegant Art Deco Earrings
When the hemlines of the 1920s were rising, so were haircuts for women. ‘Bob’ haircuts were the do of the decade, all the rage for women in this period, following the ‘flapper’ style.
These sleek shorter hair styles meant there was an increased focus on earrings, with Art Deco drop earrings beautifully peaking out below cropped cuts.
Colourful cocktail rings
Make a statement with a colourful cocktail ring. Cocktail rings rose in popularity in Prohibition era America, as a symbol of female independence, a hint of rebellion and a show of a booming economy.
An art deco-inspired cluster cocktail ring can elevate your evening wear, or add some sparkle to casual outfits.
Final Thoughts
Art deco was a period that championed modern materials and machinery to create contemporary designs. Despite emerging around 100 years ago, the sophisticated, sleek features mean they still feel fresh and fashionable even now.
Channel art deco modernity with brightly coloured gemstones in contrasting metal settings, statement cocktail rings and bold drop earrings to add elegance to evening wear or a chic addition to casualwear.
Image sources:
Cartier Tutti Trutti bracelet: Tim Evanson from Cleveland Heights
Cartier Halo Tiara: Magnus D, CC, Fair Use
Van Cleef and Arpels bracelet: Tim Evanson from Cleveland Heights
